Laboratory experiments of surf zone dynamics under on- and offshore wind conditions

This paper presents detailed laboratory experiments investigating the effect onshore and offshore wind conditions have on nearshore wave dynamics, including extreme winds. The were performed using monochromatic waves a linearly sloping bed. results show that delay breaking promote steep breakers, while extend surf zone flatten waves. Firstly, linear cnoïdal models used in standard formulations to predict cross-shore evolution under no-wind conditions. Secondly, was added account for wind-induced modifications of breaker height energy balance. Despite experimental limitations, overall satisfactory agreement between theory observations suggests such an approach can be describe models.